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So how do you find Puget Sound winter blackmouth? The answer is don’t look for the blackmouth but rather look for what attracts blackmouth. Blackmouth are a delayed released hatchery king salmon that don’t migrate to Alaska but instead inhabits the waters of Puget Sound after being released. The name blackmouth comes from the black gumline that identifies it as a resident chinook salmon. Blackmouth range from the legal size of 22 inches up to fish taken in the upper teens. In the many years I have fished Puget Sound I have found that Puget Sound blackmouth relate to three things, structure, current and food. We have all heard the line, “Find the bait-find the fish.” It sounds so easy but so many anglers ignore this simple advice in locating blackmouth. Blackmouth salmon are voracious feeders and will be looking for sand lance (candlefish) or herring to fill their bellies year around in Puget Sound. The sand lance, which are also known locally as “candlefish,” because pioneers used to dry them and make candles out of them due to their high oil content are an ecologically important forage fish throughout Puget Sound where they school in many bays, banks and inlets. Sand lance are important food for young salmon who crave the high oil content; 35% of juvenile salmon diets are composed of sand lance and blackmouth salmon depend on sand lance for 60% of their diet. Sand lance spawning occurs at high tide in shallow water on sand-gravel beaches. Sand lance will also use sandy beaches for spawning. Knowing when and where this food source is will directly reflect on locating winter blackmouth. Herring can be located at resting spots that are dictated by the current. As in river fishing, bait will be pushed into the lee of a current flow behind points, islands and land masses. The same is true in Puget Sound, knowing the position of the tide will allow you to find the best location to find baitfish and salmon feeding on it. Trolling a downrigger is in my opinion the best method for consistently hooking blackmouth. I spend much of the winter season employing this method of fishing. I run 3 Hi Performance Scotty 2106 downriggers onboard Salt Patrol my 27ft North River O/S. Being able to cover lots of water with your tackle at a controlled depth is an extremely effective way to fish for winter chinook that like to inhabit the deep waters of Puget Sound. My rod & reel setup is a Shimano Tekota-A 600 Line counter reel matched with a G. Loomis E6X 1265 moderate action rod. The reels are spooled up with 30-pound test mono main line. Yes, downrigger fishing is the one fishery that I still run mono line for. New from Yakima Bait is the Spinfish bait-holding lure, representing a new design in combining lure-and-bait to produce more and bigger salmon. The SpinFish features a pull-apart fillable bait chamber with a scent-dispersing design. When trolled behind a downrigger this lure will produce a vibrating, spinning, wounded-baitfish action that salmon can’t resist. I was lucky to get to test the prototypes for the Spinfish last winter. My first experience with the Spinfish started with targeting winter blackmouth out of Port Townsend located on the northern part of Puget Sound. We ran the Spinfish behind 11” rotating flashers and medium size Fish Flash and had very good success on blackmouth up into the mid-teens. The strike on the Spinfish is not like on light tap on a bait bite. The blackmouth will hit the Spinfish hard, run a bunch of line out of the reel and then race to the surface for the rest of the fight. Several times the rod tip would be in the water when we went to take the rod out of the holder. To ready the Spinfish you just pull apart the body and fill with any bait including tuna, herring or sardines. I had the best results using canned Chicken of the Sea Tuna (packed in oil). Pour the canned tuna into a plastic container with the all the oil in the can. At this point I will add scents from Pro-Cure. Mix in some Bloody Tuna or your choice scent and mix and you’re ready to charge the Spinfish body. Pack the Spinfish body with tuna and put the two parts back together. I rig my Spinfish 25-40 inches behind a Fish Flash or 35-45 inches behind rotating flashers. My setup last year was to tie two 4/0 Mustad octopus hooks close together on 30lb Seaguar fluorocarbon leader and add one glow bead above the top hook to act as a ball bearing. Slide the Spinfish on the leader and tie to swivel and then attach to the Fish Flash or rotating flasher and you’re ready to fish. The SpinFish can be rigged to spin clockwise or counterclockwise and unlike other bait holding lures, it needs no rubber bands to keep the lure together. The precisely drilled sent holes in the Spinfish will disperse a sent pattern into the water and salmon will follow the scent trail back to the lure. Just like any lure bring your gear up every 20 minutes and check it for shakers (undersize salmon) and re-charge the Spinfish body with fresh tuna. I normally have 4-5 Spinfish loaded with different bait scents and ready to swap out each time I check my gear. Blackmouth bites windows are short and you don’t want to waste time during the prime bite times rigging tackle. The new SpinFish comes in two sizes, a three inch and a four-inch version, that now both come fully rigged and ready to fish. The three-inch size comes in 20 of the hottest colors Yakima Bait producers. The four-inch version comes in 10 proven fish-attracting colors. All the Spinfish colors are coated in UV blackmouth catching finishes. Blackmouth like to do their feeding where the bait is. They are aggressive feeders and tend to feed when the current is minimal to expend as little energy as possible. That means the best time to catch them is when you’re fishing in the right current flow or lack of current movement. You may have heard that the best fishing for blackmouth is one to two hours before or after a tide change. Really its right before or right after a current change as that’s when the water goes slack and the fish will expend the least energy finding baitfish. Trolling downriggers I spend most of my time eyes glued to my Lowrance HDS Live sonar screen watching for bait or fish feeding near the bottom and adjusting my rigger depth to match what I’m seeing on the screen. I like to run my Spinfish about 1-2 ft. just off bottom where blackmouth generally feed. I troll bracketing the water depth in the area I’m fishing by adding depth on each pass until I hook a fish or locate bait holding. I then I try to stay with the bait or fish marks and keep pounding them with the Spinfish until I get a hookup or run the fish off the bait. Then its back on the troll, eyes again glued to the sonar and the rod tips. Add the new Yakima Bait Spinfish to your blackmouth tackle arsenal now so you’re ready for the upcoming winter season. For more information on the Yakima Bait SpinFish visit: www.yakimabait.com Capt. John Keizer SaltPatrol.com

by Buzz Ramsey Steelheads occupy a special place in fishing lore by anglers focused on the quest for silver fish. Sometimes referred to as sea-run rainbow trout, grey ghosts, chrome torpedoes, iron heads, or simply trout, these iconic fish are native to the Pacific Northwest and, due to hatchery introductions, available in the Great Lakes region too. No matter where they are found, steelhead are known (sometimes, even worshiped) for their elusiveness, size, strength, stamina, acrobatics, and unparalleled beauty. They are regarded as a premium, iconic fish on every level. Drift fishing is a tried-and-true fishing method for catching these sometimes difficult-to-capture river fish. Over the years, by boat anglers wanting to extend the drift of their baits, drift fishing has morphed into other forms like: free or side-drifting, rolling shot, and bobber doggin. In all cases, the basic principle is the same; that is, to cast out and allow your bait or artificial offering to drift along in the current near bottom. Just as the name “drift fishing” indicates, your presentation should drift with the current of the stream, this enables you to quickly cover a lot of water, increasing the odds of an encounter. How your presentation drifts is governed by how much weight you use as compared to the speed and depth of the water fished. Where to Drift Fish Ideal, “textbook” steelhead water is generally 4-to-8 feet deep and running at about the same speed as a persons’ walk. Of course, this isn’t the only place you’ll find steelhead. Riffle, tail-out, pool and rapids all hold steelhead at one time or another. Focusing first on “textbook” steelhead water will substantially improve your chance of hooking a steelhead. Winter steelheads have a penchant for holding in the tail-outs. That is, the lower third or downstream end of a hole, drift or pool, which is the first resting water located above a fast-water rapid. They will often be hugging the deep water side of a tail-out, where a steep bank extends into the river. Other places worthy of a cast or two are just downstream of large boulders or root wads, immediately downriver from an underwater drop off, and along current edges – that is: the seam where slack and running water meet. In high, perhaps off-colored water, they’ll hug the river bank where the water is slower moving than the main current. When rivers are low and clear, fish will move into areas that afford some kind of protection, like: the center or top end of holes, in well-defined deep water slots, and in fast-water sections where the current is broken up by bottom ledges or strewn with large rock. There is no substitute for observation. Accomplished steelhead anglers are continually cued into their surroundings when focused on finding fish. They’re looking upstream and down constantly for signs of fish rolling, to see where fellow anglers are fishing and especially where they’re hooking fish. In addition, when rivers are in ideal condition and fish are migrating, accomplished anglers constantly move from one drift to another, making well placed casts in every conceivable fish-holding location. How to Drift Fish Drift Fishing is easy to describe: cast out, across and upstream with enough weight so your sinker will bounce the bottom as your outfit drifts downstream in the river current. Your drift is complete when your outfit swings near shore, which is when you’ll need to reel in and cast again. Drift Fishing is a series of casts, drifts, and retrieves. The key to success is learning to differentiate between snag and fish. It’s hard to believe a fish averaging 7 pounds in weight that can sometimes reach 20 pounds or more can bite so light…but when drift fishing from a stationary position steelhead do. It’s important to pay close attention as your outfit drifts along, follow your line with your rod tip as it proceeds downstream and don’t be bashful about setting the hook should your line stop drifting. Immediately setting the hook is so important, in fact, that the Golden Rule of steelhead drift fishing has been adopted by many, including me: “If your drifting outfit stops, pauses or hesitates, set the hook, and set it hard!” In addition, it’s important to get as natural drift as possible by employing the right amount of weight. You want your sinker to tap bottom every few yards as your outfit moves along. If your weight is continually tapping bottom it means you’re using too much. If it touches bottom only once during your drift you’re not using enough. Don’t forget, your goal should be to keep your presentation in the strike zone, drifting downstream, usually within a foot or so of bottom at all times. Leader length is determined by water clarity, the clearer the water the longer the leader you should consider. In clear water that may mean a leader that’s 30-to-36 inches as compared to the more normal 18-to-22 inch length. Fluorocarbon leaders add considerable stealth to your presentation. Fluorocarbon is virtually invisible in the water making it an ideal leader material for steelhead. Because of this attribute you can bump up in leader weight making 10-to-20 pound test the preferred range for fluorocarbon leaders. Single hook size can range from as small as a size 6 up to a size 3/0, but most anglers fishing Northwest rivers prefer to rig a size 1 or 1/0, like those made by Owner, combined with a size 10 or 8 Lil Corky single egg imitation/bait floater for average river conditions. An “egg loop snell” is the standard knot used in attaching a hook to leader. A long snell wrapped on the shank of a hook before being bound creates a “loop” that can be easily opened and closed by pushing the leader back through the hook eye and placing bait, like an egg cluster or spawn bag, halfway through it before pulling tight. There are several different weight options available for river anglers. Pencil weight is sold in coils so you can cut off the right amount based on water conditions; it’s quick and easy to use and will take your outfit to the bottom quickly and transmit bottom tapping signals to you better than other weight styles. Pencil weight is available in either hollow core or solid. The hollow core allows you to slip a dropper line extending from your swivel into the hollow opening and pinch it closed with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Solid pencil weight can be attached by pinching one end flat and punching a hole in it so it can be attached to a snap swivel. Another way of attaching solid core pencil weight is by threading a one inch section of surgical tubing up your line, above your swivel, and jamming the weight into the tubing for a friction fit. Both rigs are designed so the weight will pull free should it get hung on the bottom, allowing you to retrieve your outfit minus your sinker. Slinky sinkers are a lot less likely to hang on the bottom than pencil weigh. Slinky style sinkers consist of a section of parachute cord filled with lead shot with each end of the cord heat sealed. You can make your own with a slinky making tool or purchase different length slinky sinkers at stores specializing in river tackle. Because river conditions vary, I rely on pencil weight in 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 inch diameters, using the eighth inch diameter or a 6 or 8 shot slinky when rivers are low and slow moving. Under more average water conditions 2-to-3 inches of slinky or 3/16 inch pencil weight might be the correct amount. You should realize that nothing will get you to the bottom in high, heavy current like employing 1/4 inch pencil weight. Lil Corky and Spin-N-Glo, sometimes referred to as “drift bobbers”, imitate an egg cluster or other forage. The round egg image a Lil Corky provides is a proven fish catcher, while the sonic vibration produced by Spin-N-Glo is what makes this buoyant spinner enticing to fish. When employed by anglers drifting their outfits from a stationary position, the buoyancy provided by Spin-N-Glo and/or Lil Corky resists the current pushing your outfit downriver ahead of your weight such that your offering will be close but just above bottom resulting in fewer hang ups. When rivers are high running and slightly off color you might increase your odds of success by stacking 2 Corky’s in tandem, or using a larger, more visible size. Likewise, when rivers are clear running a size 14 or 12 Corky might appeal to the fish more. The same is true with Spin-N-Glo with the size 12, 10 and 8 being the most popular under average river conditions. Adding sand shrimp or nickel-sized cluster of fresh or cured salmon or steelhead eggs will often enhance the appeal of your offering. There are several ways to rig these baits. With eggs, it’s as easy as placing your egg cluster inside the egg loop snelled on the shank of your hook and turning the hook point into your bait. Sand shrimp are normally rigged head down with the hook going through the tail first before piercing the chest cavity with the hook and capturing the shrimp body with the loop of your hook snell. Winter steelhead fishing is one of the most rewarding fishing experiences known and will transport you to a winter world of untold beauty and sights unrealized by most. The pay-off, whether successful on every trip or not, is indelible lifetime memories that are sure to fire future adventures. Please be safe. If you’re wading, use a wading staff and stay clear of wading in water that’s swift or over your waist. If you’re in a boat, always wear a PFD/life vest – inflatable life jackets are a great way to go.

Steelheads occupy a special place in fishing lore by anglers focused on the quest for silver fish. Sometimes referred to as sea-run rainbow trout, grey ghosts, chrome torpedoes, iron heads, or simply trout, these iconic fish are native to the Pacific Northwest and, due to hatchery introductions, available in the Great Lakes region too. No matter where they are found, steelhead are known (sometimes, even worshiped) for their elusiveness, size, strength, stamina, acrobatics, and unparalleled beauty. They are regarded as a premium, iconic fish on every level. Drift fishing is a tried-and-true fishing method for catching these sometimes difficult-to-capture river fish. Over the years, by boat anglers wanting to extend the drift of their baits, drift fishing has morphed into other forms like: free or side-drifting, rolling shot, and bobber doggin. In all cases, the basic principle is the same; that is, to cast out and allow your bait or artificial offering to drift along in the current near bottom. Just as the name “drift fishing” indicates, your presentation should drift with the current of the stream, this enables you to quickly cover a lot of water, increasing the odds of an encounter. How your presentation drifts is governed by how much weight you use as compared to the speed and depth of the water fished. Where to Drift Fish Ideal, “textbook” steelhead water is generally 4-to-8 feet deep and running at about the same speed as a persons’ walk. Of course, this isn’t the only place you’ll find steelhead. Riffle, tail-out, pool and rapids all hold steelhead at one time or another. Focusing first on “textbook” steelhead water will substantially improve your chance of hooking a steelhead. Winter steelheads have a penchant for holding in the tail-outs. That is, the lower third or downstream end of a hole, drift or pool, which is the first resting water located above a fast-water rapid. They will often be hugging the deep water side of a tail-out, where a steep bank extends into the river. Other places worthy of a cast or two are just downstream of large boulders or root wads, immediately downriver from an underwater drop off, and along current edges – that is: the seam where slack and running water meet. In high, perhaps off-colored water, they’ll hug the river bank where the water is slower moving than the main current. When rivers are low and clear, fish will move into areas that afford some kind of protection, like: the center or top end of holes, in well-defined deep water slots, and in fast-water sections where the current is broken up by bottom ledges or strewn with large rock. There is no substitute for observation. Accomplished steelhead anglers are continually cued into their surroundings when focused on finding fish. They’re looking upstream and down constantly for signs of fish rolling, to see where fellow anglers are fishing and especially where they’re hooking fish. In addition, when rivers are in ideal condition and fish are migrating, accomplished anglers constantly move from one drift to another, making well placed casts in every conceivable fish-holding location. How to Drift Fish Drift Fishing is easy to describe: cast out, across and upstream with enough weight so your sinker will bounce the bottom as your outfit drifts downstream in the river current. Your drift is complete when your outfit swings near shore, which is when you’ll need to reel in and cast again. Drift Fishing is a series of casts, drifts, and retrieves. The key to success is learning to differentiate between snag and fish. It’s hard to believe a fish averaging 7 pounds in weight that can sometimes reach 20 pounds or more can bite so light…but when drift fishing from a stationary position steelhead do. It’s important to pay close attention as your outfit drifts along, follow your line with your rod tip as it proceeds downstream and don’t be bashful about setting the hook should your line stop drifting. Immediately setting the hook is so important, in fact, that the Golden Rule of steelhead drift fishing has been adopted by many, including me: “If your drifting outfit stops, pauses or hesitates, set the hook, and set it hard!” In addition, it’s important to get as natural drift as possible by employing the right amount of weight. You want your sinker to tap bottom every few yards as your outfit moves along. If your weight is continually tapping bottom it means you’re using too much. If it touches bottom only once during your drift you’re not using enough. Don’t forget, your goal should be to keep your presentation in the strike zone, drifting downstream, usually within a foot or so of bottom at all times. Leader length is determined by water clarity, the clearer the water the longer the leader you should consider. In clear water that may mean a leader that’s 30-to-36 inches as compared to the more normal 18-to-22 inch length. Fluorocarbon leaders add considerable stealth to your presentation. Fluorocarbon is virtually invisible in the water making it an ideal leader material for steelhead. Because of this attribute you can bump up in leader weight making 10-to-20 pound test the preferred range for fluorocarbon leaders. Single hook size can range from as small as a size 6 up to a size 3/0, but most anglers fishing Northwest rivers prefer to rig a size 1 or 1/0, like those made by Owner, combined with a size 10 or 8 Lil Corky single egg imitation/bait floater for average river conditions. An “egg loop snell” is the standard knot used in attaching a hook to leader. A long snell wrapped on the shank of a hook before being bound creates a “loop” that can be easily opened and closed by pushing the leader back through the hook eye and placing bait, like an egg cluster or spawn bag, halfway through it before pulling tight. There are several different weight options available for river anglers. Pencil weight is sold in coils so you can cut off the right amount based on water conditions; it’s quick and easy to use and will take your outfit to the bottom quickly and transmit bottom tapping signals to you better than other weight styles. Pencil weight is available in either hollow core or solid. The hollow core allows you to slip a dropper line extending from your swivel into the hollow opening and pinch it closed with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Solid pencil weight can be attached by pinching one end flat and punching a hole in it so it can be attached to a snap swivel. Another way of attaching solid core pencil weight is by threading a one inch section of surgical tubing up your line, above your swivel, and jamming the weight into the tubing for a friction fit. Both rigs are designed so the weight will pull free should it get hung on the bottom, allowing you to retrieve your outfit minus your sinker. Slinky sinkers are a lot less likely to hang on the bottom than pencil weigh. Slinky style sinkers consist of a section of parachute cord filled with lead shot with each end of the cord heat sealed. You can make your own with a slinky making tool or purchase different length slinky sinkers at stores specializing in river tackle. Because river conditions vary, I rely on pencil weight in 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 inch diameters, using the eighth inch diameter or a 6 or 8 shot slinky when rivers are low and slow moving. Under more average water conditions 2-to-3 inches of slinky or 3/16 inch pencil weight might be the correct amount. You should realize that nothing will get you to the bottom in high, heavy current like employing 1/4 inch pencil weight. Lil Corky and Spin-N-Glo, sometimes referred to as “drift bobbers”, imitate an egg cluster or other forage. The round egg image a Lil Corky provides is a proven fish catcher, while the sonic vibration produced by Spin-N-Glo is what makes this buoyant spinner enticing to fish. When employed by anglers drifting their outfits from a stationary position, the buoyancy provided by Spin-N-Glo and/or Lil Corky resists the current pushing your outfit downriver ahead of your weight such that your offering will be close but just above bottom resulting in fewer hang ups. When rivers are high running and slightly off color you might increase your odds of success by stacking 2 Corky’s in tandem, or using a larger, more visible size. Likewise, when rivers are clear running a size 14 or 12 Corky might appeal to the fish more. The same is true with Spin-N-Glo with the size 12, 10 and 8 being the most popular under average river conditions. Adding sand shrimp or nickel-sized cluster of fresh or cured salmon or steelhead eggs will often enhance the appeal of your offering. There are several ways to rig these baits. With eggs, it’s as easy as placing your egg cluster inside the egg loop snelled on the shank of your hook and turning the hook point into your bait. Sand shrimp are normally rigged head down with the hook going through the tail first before piercing the chest cavity with the hook and capturing the shrimp body with the loop of your hook snell. Winter steelhead fishing is one of the most rewarding fishing experiences known and will transport you to a winter world of untold beauty and sights unrealized by most. The pay-off, whether successful on every trip or not, is indelible lifetime memories that are sure to fire future adventures. Please be safe. If you’re wading, use a wading staff and stay clear of wading in water that’s swift or over your waist. If you’re in a boat, always wear a PFD/life vest – inflatable life jackets are a great way to go.

Is there an avid angler on your Christmas gift buying list? Yakima Bait Company produces a host of iconic fishing lures that any angler would not only appreciate, but the gift of fishing tackle keeps on giving trip after trip after trip. Talk about the perfect “Stocking Stuffers” there is something for everyone who loves to fish at Yakima Bait Company. ROOSTER TAIL BOX KITS Since the 1950’s the original Worden’s Rooster Tail Spinners have been catching almost everything with fins! Rooster Tail is the ideal spinner for targeting trout, panfish, bass and much more. Rooster Tail Box Kits include the most popular and effective finishes, plus a free Vibric Rooster Tail as an added bonus. Available kits include the Big Bass Pack, Trout Pack, Trout Pack 2, Panfish Pack, Minnow Pack, Allstar Pack, Allstar Pack 2 and Pond Pack. Rooster Tail Box Kits are available in 1/16, 1/8, 1/6 and 1/4 ounce sizes. Pick out one or more of these box kits and the angler on your gift buying list is sure to be pleased. MAG LIP When it comes to high action wobbling crankbaits, nothing out produces the Mag Lip family of body baits. Mag Lip features a wide wobbling action with the exclusive “skip beat” action that triggers strikes when other plugs fail. Mag Lip is available in several sizes including 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5. 4.0, 4.5, 5.0 plus the Mag Lip 2.5 and 3.0 Finesse versions. If you’re looking for a specific color, no worries because Mag Lip is produced in over 40 different fish catching colors including popular trout, salmon, bass and walleye patterns. The 2.0 and 2.5 Mag Lip sizes are ideal for trout and panfish applications. Steelhead and brown trout fishermen zero in on the 3.0 and 3.5 sizes and salmon fishermen favor the 4.0, 4.5 and 5.0 versions. If you’re looking for a wide wobbling plug that’s tuned and ready to fish right out of the package, Mag Lip is the standard of excellence. SPIN N GLO BOTTOM WALKERS Talk about iconic fishing tackle products, the classic Yakima Bait Spin n Glo Bottom Walker catches walleye everywhere this popular and tasty species is found. The ideal trolling sinker for fishing live bait rigs, the Spin n Glo Bottom Walker is a trolling sinker and attractor all in one. Available in nine different finishes and also in 1, 1.5, 2 and 3 ounce versions, these trolling sinkers are ideal for fishing the Hammer Time Walleye Harness, the Hildebrandt Finesse Walleye Spinner, the Spin n Glo Walleye Rig, Slo-Death Rigs and much more. Bottom Walkers work great in natural lakes, the Great Lakes, impoundments, pothole lakes and even in rivers. Everywhere walleye are found, the Spin n Glo Bottom Walker is a winner. MAXI JIG The Maxi Jig is made to go the distance. Built with a 2X strong Owner hook, Maxi Jig is small in size, but produces big on powerful fish like steelhead. The pulsating maribou/flashabou tail can be fished clean or tipped with a wax worm, worm, wiggler or soft plastic. Maxi Jig is available in 33 different finishes and four popular sizes including 1/32, 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 ounce models. Maxi Jig is ideal for fishing below a float to target lethargic steelhead and trout. To make this deadly steelhead jig even more effective, consider using the new Rooster Tail Spray Scent. Made with Pro Cure water soluble oils that won’t gum up the pulsating tail on Maxi Jigs or Rooster Tail Spinners, this is the perfect way to put an attractive scent stream in the water. One pump from the two ounce bottle is all it takes to make a great lure even better. JOE THOMAS PRO SERIES ROOSTER TAIL SPINNERS One of the best kept secrets on the pro bass tournament trail is how in-line spinners crush trophy smallmouth bass. Yakima Bait teamed up with bass pro Joe Thomas to produce the Pro Series Rooster Tail Spinners designed especially for targeting trophy bass. Available in a dozen of Joe’s favorite finishes, the Joe Thomas series comes in both 1/2 and 3/4 ounce sizes ideal for slow rolling near bottom or buzzing across the surface. WHERE TO BUY Yakima Bait Company products are found in virtually every major retailer coast to coast. If you can’t find the product you’re looking for at a favorite retailer, visit our on-line store at www.yakimabait.com and stock up on items guaranteed to put fish on the line and smiles on those faces!

For the inshore saltwater angler, redfish are among the most rewarding gamefish that swim. They can be caught under a broad range of conditions, including under extreme cold or heat, and in clear or stained water. They are, by far, the most reliable of any inshore saltwater species. And a variety of lures and techniques can be used to fool them. When skies are bright and the fish are cautious, small swimbaits like Hildebrandt’s SwimEasy are the perfect choice. It's pure tin construction with Elaztech grub trailer combine to create a unique wobbling, swimming action … an action that redfish find irresistible. Natural finishes, like Smokey Shad and Houdini, are ideal under bright skies. It's subtle, lifelike colorations match most baitfish found in tidal basins, and fish will respond to them aggressively. When light levels are low, try brighter, more opaque colors — like Space Guppy and New Penny. You’ll not only fool redfish, you’ll attract other species like trout, jacks and flounder. If you’re confronted with stained water, switch to a Drum Roller spinnerbait — applying the same color selection based on available light levels. The brilliant flash and thumping vibration of a blade bait will instantly alert any fish within striking distance, in all types of cover — including piers, oyster bars and flooded spartina grass. A good balance of tackle should include a 6’-6” to 7’-2” medium to medium-heavy casting or spinning outfit, spooled with 10- to 20-pound braid and suitable fluorocarbon leader (optional in stained water). Or, if your approach is more old school, straight mono in the 12- to 17-pound range will work just fine. Look for reds moving with the tide. As the water rises, fish the shallowest parts of flats and bars, shorelines and into flooded grass, or far up tidal creeks and ditches. As the tide recedes, try intercepting the fish as they follow the water. Points, holes, channel swings and shell bars with current — all can hold concentrations of redfish. And the lures described above will catch them. The bottom line? If you’re not getting bit, move! Redfish respond to rising water quickly, and when they do, they’re usually on the feed. Good luck!

As the nights become cooler and the rains begin to fall, Salmon begin their upward migration to the waters where they were born in hopes of creating future generations. These crisp Fall days also push anglers off the big open water and into the smaller tributaries in search of Kings and Coho. The past several years has introduced many new techniques to Salmon Fishermen across the country! However, one lure seems to produce year in and year out: Flatfish U-20’s to T-60 sized Flatfish have produced consistent action for Anglers for decades! From Backtrolling smaller rivers to casting and retrieving, the Flatfish continues to be one of the most versatile lures in a Salmon angler’s tackle box. To be better prepared for the Fall Salmon season, let’s go through the keys of successfully utilizing Flatfish. Size: Flatfish are commonly used for Chinook, Coho and Chum Salmon! Chinook especially seem to key in on the heavy thump and action created from this lure. In selecting the proper size, one must first determine how their Flatfish will be rigged: Flatline, Lead dropper or behind a diver. If Simply flatlining, knowing the depth each size of Flatfish can dive is important! While MagLips are designed for faster currents and deeper water, the wide action of a Flatfish will dive shallower but give off a heavy vibration. By adding a lead dropper or a diver, an angler can fish deeper holes with smaller sized flatfish if the fish seem to be keying in on a specific size or action! In most cases the M-2 and T-50 sizes seem to be the most popular amongst Fishermen. Color: Every Angler has their favorite color! And, in turn, so do the fish! One color may be lights out on your home river, but may not work as well on a different system! The best line to remember is: “Never argue with the Fish!” Always start your day with a good spread of colors. Figure out which colors the fish seem to be reacting to and lock down your colors for the rest of the day! However, as the sun gets high, cloud cover comes in or the Fog rolls through, a Salmon’s color preference may change quickly! Also, on heavily pressured systems, try to use colors the fish have yet to see during the day. If everyone is running red/gold…try green/chrome! Give the fish a different look! As these Salmon make their way upstream, the rods and cones in their eyes will change, just like their physical appearance. This means fish will key in on different colors depending on how long they have been in fresh water. To keep things simple, choose colors with variations of Red and Green, solid colors and metallics. But…always have a couple colors that you think are “off the wall” and no Salmon in their right mind would bite…that color may end up being your hot lure one day! Scent: The larger Flatfish in M-2 to T-60 have a large enough lip and surface area to allow Anglers to “wrap” bait on the bottom of the lure to add a consistent scent trail. Baits ranging from Tuna to Roe, Sardines, Herring and more have all been used successfully. One new product that has gained a lot of traction amongst West Coast fishermen is called “Fish Nip” from Pro-Cure. This Tuna based bait stores easily in tackle boxes and remains fresh for weeks on end. It is a Tuna based bait that an Angler can add their favorite oils to and enhance their Flatfish with a bait that lasts for hours! The most important thing to remember regardless of the wrap you use…a little goes a long way! Try not to wrap too much bait onto Flatfish. These lures have been designed to create a fish catching action. Adding too much weight can alter the action! Flatfish have been a staple amongst Salmon Anglers not only because they can produce bites in difficult conditions, but because of their consistency. There are many techniques Fishermen use to illicit a bite from a fish that can be difficult to catch because of its “one track mind” during the Fall months. Diversifying your approach is always encouraged…but don’t forget about Flatfish! …Besides…who doesn’t like seeing a Plug Take Down!

Although the timing varies by region and river system, this is the month many Northwest, BC, Alaskan and Great Lake anglers start thinking about targeting coho salmon as they begin their run toward the river habitat or hatchery that produced them. (Scott Haugen Photo) Coho, sometimes called silver salmon, average seven to nine pounds in size with some strains reaching 15 pounds or more. In all regions, any coho salmon that weighs in at 20 pounds or more is considered a lifetime trophy. The current world record sport caught coho salmon was taken in 1989 from, surprisingly, the Salmon River in New York State at 33 pounds 4 ounces. In 2012 a coho salmon was caught-and-released from the same New York river that (based on measurements prior to release) might have weighed in at 34 pounds. And while coho can be caught any number of ways when returning to their natal stream, casting weighted spinners is one fishing method seldom overlooked by anglers. The most common way to fish a spinner in rivers is to cast out, across and slightly upstream and reel it back to you with a retrieve speed that keeps it working near bottom. If the water is deep, you should allow your spinner sink near bottom before starting your retrieve. Fished this way, the river current will swing your spinner downstream through the fish-holding water. Once your spinner swings in near shore, it's time to reel in and cast again. You’ll be much more successful if you don't get caught up in a steady, ridged, retrieve mode. Let your spinner work with the current. For example, if you feel a burst of water grab your lure, slow down or momentarily stop retrieving and let it work. Spinners are the most effective when slowly retrieved, as slow as you can, and within a foot or two of the bottom. Strikes are usually definite, but some fish will just stop the spinning blade so, if in doubt, set the hook. In addition to allowing your spinner to work with the current, you can sometimes tease these fish into biting by working your spinner in an erratic fashion with lots of starts and stops, speed-ups and slow-downs, even changing the angle of your retrieve can sometimes produce results as there are times when coho can be teased into striking. In extreme clear water, where upstream looking fish might spook when seeing you, upstream casting can be the “go to” spinner method. Easy, position yourself within casting range of the fish-holding water and cast at an upstream angle. If the water is shallow, begin your retrieve as or just before your spinner hits the water, which can help you avoid hang ups. After an upstream cast, especially when the water is shallow, reel fast as possible until you’ve picked up all slack line and begin to feel the resistance of the spinning blade; then slow down your retrieve speed and work your lure just above bottom. Another productive technique is downstream casting, which works best on wide holes or tail-outs. Cast your spinner out, across and at a downstream angle. Since, the current is moving away from you, it requires a slow or no retrieve, as your spinner swings through the holding water. When the fish are in, confirmed by vast numbers visible in clear water or due to them sometimes jumping, you may think a fast limit is a sure thing. And while you may quickly tag out (and I hope you do) realize that these fish can be finicky about what spinner size, style and color they’ll respond to. Coho salmon are famous for sometimes turning up their nose at nearly every offering but then going crazy (as in a fish-feeding frenzy) after only one cast with the right lure or color. My advice: try different offerings and let the fish tell you what they like. Try Tipping: while tipping is a common practice among bass and walleye anglers, the trick is often overlooked by those chasing salmon. With spinners, what works is to tip the hook of your spinner with a short section (a one inch piece might be all you need) pinched from a scent-filled worm - like a PowerBait or Gulp! worm. And while different worm colors can work, what often adds to success is to hang a one-inch section of a worm in fluorescent pink from your hook – just let it hang straight back. Spinners are available in an amazing array of weights, sizes and colors. For coho salmon, the most popular weights include the one quarter, one-third (3/8) and one-half ounce sizes – it all depends on water depth and fish preference. Some of the popular names include the Flash Glo and Rooster Tail. If you’re on a budget consider the Bud’s spinner. Keep in mind that regulations might require the use of a single, rather than a treble hook, when fishing salmon in freshwater rivers. Although salmon will respond to solid metal finishes like nickel, brass or copper, coho may prefer lures featuring a combination of color and reflective metal. Spinners having fluorescent chartreuse, pink, green, blue, black, orange or red added to their makeup should be included in your arsenal. Remember, these fish can be fickle as the stock market so take along a wide assortment of different spinners, sizes and colors. While both bait cast and spinning rod and reel outfits work, many anglers (including me) prefer to use a spinning rod and reel when tossing blades. The reason: spinning reels facilitate the casting of sometimes light-weight spinner sizes and, at least for me, better deal with the fast starts, stops, slow downs, and speed ups associated with fishing a spinner. When it comes to fishing rods, eight and a half to nine foot rods in medium to medium-heavy actions are the most popular for spinner casting. Most anglers will combine these with medium size spinning reels capable of holding 140 yards of 10 to 14 pound monofilament line. Likely due to a spinner’s sonic vibration, coho salmon respond to spinners by striking them savagely. Their built-in weight makes spinner casting easy while their vibration-producing blades attract fish in waters ranging from stagnate to fast moving. In short, the right spinner style and color will produce almost anywhere coho salmon hold.

For over 20 years, I spent a month or more at a time chasing winter steelhead on the Oregon Coast, taking outdoor writers, fishing tackle buyers and industry VIP’s fishing. Since I worked for a fishing tackle company that made smokers designed for fish and game, I went out of my way to have fresh smoked fish available during our fishing adventures. The method that enabled me to fish friends and business associates each and every day and share fresh smoked fish too was the following: I’d fillet my catch at the end of the day and place the best cuts for smoking (the bellies and collars) in my favorite liquid brine and refrigerate until the end of the next fishing day. It’s then that I would remove the fillets from the brine, rinse well, let them air dry for an hour or two before sprinkling them with spices and placing in my smoker and letting the heating element burn two pans full of wood smoke during the evening hours (before bed). Given that most of the smoking process, after the smoke from a couple pans of wood is applied, is just drying the fish to the right consistency, I’d just let the smoker run all night, while I slept, and unplug it shortly after the alarm rang the next early AM. It was then that I’d let the fillets cool before placing them in a paper bag with several layers of paper towels in the bottom. Having fresh smoked fish in the drift boat while chasing fish each day was a big hit with everyone and especially those whose job it was to keep retail stores supplied with smokehouse products. The home made brine that I mixed then and continue to use includes (remember to stir well): 1/4 cup non-iodized salt (iodized salt is bitter) 1/4 cup soy sauce 1 cup apple juice 1 cup sugar (brown sugar works too) 1 to 1-1/2 quart water (depending on amount of fish) Immerse fish fillets in the above solution, refrigerate overnight (longer is OK), rinse thoroughly in fresh water, pat dry with paper towels, place on smokehouse racks (skin side down helps prevents sticking), sprinkle with ground garlic, onion and black pepper (or other favorite spices), and add a final sprinkling of sugar and let air dry of an hour or more before placing in you smokehouse. Smoke until done, depending on quantity and desired texture– 6 to 12 hours usually works depending on outside temperature and the heat generated by your smoker.

With a combined run of nearly a million chinook and coho salmon returning to the Columbia River mouth this August and September: forecast by state agencies to include 340,000 chinook and 600,000 coho, it might be time for you to plan a trip. And although the number of chinook returning will restrain fisheries targeting them, the giant coho return should be enough to keep the boat ramps and fish cleaning stations, at this popular sport fishery, busy. When it comes to catching salmon, like many near saltwater fisheries, it's all about the tides at Buoy 10. You see, each successive tide pushes more and more salmon into the estuary, which is the first place you can ambush fall salmon as they enter the Columbia River. The salmon ride the incoming tide into the river like a surf boarder might a big wave, which means each tide, especially a big one, will carry with it large numbers of salmon all the way to and above the Astoria-Megler Bridge. To be successful is about understanding where this wave full of fish can be found and being there when they bite. It’s all about understanding the ever changing push-and-pull of water. During times when tides are less dramatic (it’s true) the tides push fewer salmon not as far into the estuary. But if the lesser tides occur for a week or more the lean daily numbers can add up to big ones and offer quick limits fairly close to the mid-estuary access points like Hammond, Warrenton, Chinook and Ilwaco. Because the area extending from Buoy 10 (the red channel marker that describes this fishery) to Tongue Point is 14 miles long and four to five miles wide most anglers locate the salmon by trolling. And the best time to troll, especially when tides are big, is mostly during the last half of the incoming and first half of the outgoing tide. The fishing rods used at Buoy 10 are fairly stout and stiff enough to handle cannon-ball style sinkers that might vary in weight from four to 16 ounces. What most angers do is run heavier sinkers on their front rods, say 12 to 16 ounces, and lighter sinkers, 8 to 10 ounces, on lines trailing out the back of the boat. How much weight you use depends on how deep the salmon are running and whether or not you are trying to keep your gear at or near bottom. Keep in mind though that not all salmon are on the bottom as many will suspend at mid depth, especially when tides are flooding. What many anglers do is run their front rods out 20 to 25 feet on their line counters and their back rods out far enough to occasionally hit bottom when trolling over water less than 30 feet in depth. A popular rod series for fishing “Buoy 10” are the Berkley Air rod series that I helped the company design. Actions that work at Buoy 10 include the 7’9” HB (Heavy Bounce), 9’ XH (Extra Heavy), and 9’6” and 10’6” HH (Heavy Herring) models. The 7’9” HB is easier to stow than longer rods and perfect for fishing straight out behind your boat. The 9’XH is an overall favorite among many for its ability to handle big sinkers, while the 9’6” and 10’6” HH actions are handy when wanting to spread lines out to achieve a wider trolling swath. The HB and HH will handle weights to 12 ounces; while XH can easily handle 16 ounce sinkers. If you want the ultimate in stiffness with a land-them-quick action, it’s the rod action I use, consider the 8’ XHB (Extra Heavy Bounce) which will handle sinkers of 20 ounces or more. Levelwind reels equipped with line counters are what everyone uses at Buoy 10, since you really need to know what depth you are trolling and be able to return to it reliably. And while I’ve used the Abu Garcia 5500/6500 line counter models for Buoy 10 salmon, I’m mostly using them when chasing spring chinook these days. For Buoy 10, it’s the Penn Warefare or Fathom II Line Counter reels in the 15 size that works best for me. And yes, these Penn models are available in right or left hand versions. When it comes to fishing line, the majority of anglers employ high-tech braid. Most guides and anglers I know spool 50 or 65 pound test braid, which is way thinner than even 25-pound test monofilament and totally eliminates the thought of an unexpected break off. This is something that can happen when using monofilament fishing line, especially if it is been heavily used and on the reel for more than a year. However, if you prefer mono, some anglers do, I would suggest picking a tough one like Berkley Big Game in at least 25-pound test. Like many having boats, I’ve usually got four friends with me when trolling Buoy 10, meaning we have five rods in the water. Although it varies depending on what the fish are biting, I generally run spinners on the two rods near the bow of the boat and herring or anchovy on the rods positioned out the stern. Make no mistake, spinners work at Buoy 10 and what you might discover, as we have, that the majority of big chinook seem to come on the spinners. The idea behind running bait on the back rods is to encourage salmon that passed up on the spinners or arrived late to all the attraction produced by our flashers to bite. As for my rod, I once ran it between the two stern rods and rigged with the same amount of weigh as the other back rods. Doing this meant my rod was mostly in-line with the others and as such rarely got bit as fish attracted to all the flash produced by our Fish Flash got to the side rods first. What changed the success of my center rod was when I started trailing my outfit, often rigged with a Mulkey spinner in combination with a four ounce sinker, behind the boat 70 to 100 feet or more. What this often means is that my sinker might bounce bottom when trolling over 20 feet of water or less but otherwise my outfit is suspended somewhere at mid-depth. There is just something about having a lure trailing out behind the other gear that the fish sometimes respond to in a big way.

The Rooster Tail was one of the first artificial lures I ever used as a kid. The shiny little bait accounted for many a Rock Bass, Bluegill and Crappie from the many streams and farm ponds around my home in Southern Ohio. A slightly larger version also bagged me my first Northern Pike on a family fishing trip to Ontario when I was 10 years old. The bait was affordable, effective and easy to fish! As I got older, my fishing focus turned to Largemouth and Smallmouth Bass and competitive bass fishing. That focus would eventually lead me to a full time career as a touring professional angler on the Bassmaster Tournament Trail. Unfortunately, that evolution also led me away from that little bait I had loved so much as a young boy. That is until the Bassmaster Tour took a northern swing to Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. I learned quickly that to win on the Great Lakes you needed be able to catch smallmouths in clear water, which meant jerk baits, tube baits and fast moving spinnerbaits. I also learned that my style of fishing was more suited to fast moving reaction baits than finessing them to bite with bottom bumping lures. I also learned that Smallmouths were attracted to bright colors, particularly chartreuse. I experimented with various spinnerbaits, but they all fell short in certain ways. I needed a bait that could be fished fast near the surface, was flashy and compact in profile but heavy enough to cast a long distance. That’s when it hit me… The perfect bait would be a Rooster Tail! Over the next several years the Rooster Tail accounted for many top B.A.S.S finishes from the Great Lakes to Lake Mead in Nevada. Anywhere there was clear water it worked on both Smallmouth and Largemouth Bass. Best of all, I was the only one using it and guarded my secret as best I could. I also refined the Rooster Tail sizes and colors as well as the line, rigging, tackle that worked best. That system I developed is the one that I still use to catch big Smallmouths to this very day! Here’s the formula… I use either a ½ or ¾ ounce Rooter Tail in a bright color. My favorites are chartreuse with chartreuse or gold blades or hot pink with matching blades. I fish them on a 7’ medium heavy baitcasting rod with a high speed retrieve reel spooled with 50-60 pound braided line which connects to a large ball bearing swivel. To the swivel, I attach and 18” leader of 15-20 pound fluorocarbon line that I tie directly to the Rooster Tail with a Palomar knot. I target areas that have scattered rock and weed in less than 12’ of water. It doesn’t matter how clear the water is, but wind does help. I prefer post spawn when the water is between 58 and 68 degrees. It also works in the fall when the water cools to those temperature ranges. Make long casts. The further the better! Point the tip of the rod at the bait and retrieve the Roster Tail at a high rate of speed. My goal is to keep it within on foot of the surface, but not rippling the top. Smallmouths are visual feeders and the strikes will be very violent. The hookup to land ratio with this technique are very high many times you will see the bass coming from great distances in the clear water, but never slow the retrieve. Many times they will take it close to the boat. Recently, I have even worked directly with the manufacturers of Rooster Tail to put together a Joe Thomas Pro Series of Rooster Tails in the sizes and my hand picked colors that have proven effective for me over the years. We’ve even added an upsized black nickel premium hook and split ring to hold those big Smallies even through their acrobatic jumps Give my Rooster Tail system a try and don’t be surprise if you catch the biggest Smallmouth of your life! Good Fishin’ Joe Thomas

Back when I started fishing professionally over 30 years ago, walleye fishing was a little different. Yes, there were walleye way back then and no they did not swim with dinosaurs! One of the presentations that routinely produced fish in those days was a technique known as “tipping” a wobbling plug. Tipping is the process of adding one or two inches of nightcrawler to either the belly or tail treble hook on a wobbling plug. Tipping presents a scent stream in the water and a little different action or look to the bait. Ole school wobblers like this FlatFish are ideal for certain walleye fishing presentations. The FlatFish fishes well when tipped with a small chunk of nightcrawler and these wobblers are also great when fished in combination with a bottom walker sinker. Back in the day, tipping was hugely popular and yet today I can’t remember the last time I witnessed anyone else doing this with plugs. Strange how times and fishing tactics change over time. CANDIDATES FOR TIPPING Not all crankbaits are ideally suited to tipping. In part this is because hanging anything off the treble hook of a crankbait can seriously deaden the action. This is particularly true when dealing with lures like stickbaits that have a modest amount of action in the first place. The best plugs for tipping tend to be high action wobblers like the iconic Yakima Bait FlatFish. The FlatFish features a pronounced side-to-side wobble that can handle a little “tipping” without seriously damaging the lure’s natural action. Other more modern wobblers that cry out for tipping include the Yakima Bait Mag Lip and the Yakima Bait Fat Wiggler. EASY DOES IT The way fishermen think scares me sometimes. If tipping a crankbait with an inch of fresh nightcrawler works well, there are anglers out there who would say, “let’s use the whole crawler”! The idea of tipping is to add an enticing scent stream in the water, without destroying the lure action in the process. In this case a little goes long ways. Breaking a nightcrawler into three pieces is about the perfect “tipping” size for the wobbling crankbaits outlined here. USING WOBBLERS AS DIVERS Another old school tactic for targeting walleye is to remove the hooks from a wobbling plug and use the plug as a diving device to get a crawler harness to depth. High action wobblers work well for this chore because they have a steep “Dive Curve” and they are more than capable of towing other lures. A common set up involves adding a Hammer Time Walleye Spinner to the back of a wobbling plug like a Mag Lip or Fat Wiggler that have well defined diving abilities. Some anglers might argue that there is no need to remove the treble hooks from the plug. My experience suggests that leaving the hooks on the plug leads to massive tangles in the landing net. Most of the fish are going to be caught on the trailing spinner anyway, so removing the treble hooks from the plug helps to keep tangles to a minimum. Some of the most successful FlatFish sizes for walleye fishing include the F7 and U20. Classic colors like this Firetiger are hard to beat. TWO LURE RIGS For those anglers who insist on keeping the hooks on the plug, I’d suggest running a three-way swivel set up with the main line coming to one end of the swivel, a 36 to 40 inch leader trailing back to a spinner rig on the top swivel and a 12 to 24 inch dropper leader to the plug on the bottom swivel. Two lure rigs are not legal in all states, so it pays to check with local regulations before putting this ole school rig into play. BOTTOM WALKERS AND WOBBLERS It was also popular in the day to combine using a bottom walker sinker like the Yakima Bait Spin n Glo Bottom Walker with certain wobbling plugs. The goal here of course was to fish deeper than the lure was capable of naturally diving. The Yakima Bait FlatFish is perhaps the most common choice because the FlatFish comes in so many sizes and color options. The other advantage of the FlatFish is this plug doesn’t dive very deep preventing it from dredging bottom and snagging when fished with a bottom walker. The F-7 FlatFish would be an ideal size for fishing in combination with a bottom bouncer sinker, but FlatFish up to the U20 size are also well suited to this style of rigging. For a little extra enticement try tipping the FlatFish with a small chunk of nightcrawler. WRAPPING IT UP Fishing tactics are constantly evolving, but that doesn’t mean that methods used decades ago will no longer work. On the contrary, some ole school walleye fishing methods are just as deadly today as they were back in the day. Throw back Thursday or any day would be a good time to try out some of these oldies, but goodies.

Made for a family of 4 Here’s what you’re need. 1. Four eggs 1b. This is were you can variate by choosing your cheese of choice 2. One pound of cooked crab meat 3. One pound of grilled or streamed prawns 4. Red and green bell peppers 5. Three good sized celery stocks 6. Red, white and green onions to your personal liking 7. Pan grilled mushrooms 1st. I start by cooking all my seafood first then set aside 2nd. Secondly I start by grilling all my vegetables in olive oil on medium high for only two minutes flipping in the pan 2 till 3 times followed by cutting my heat off and covering pan with lip - to steam while I prepare my eggs. 3rd. I take my 4 eggs and mix in a 2 oz of water ( this helps in achieving a thinner layer ) - you can either use a omelet pan or a standard ( remember all your other ingredients are still warm ) - to cook my eggs - I like real 100% but you can substitute any oil of your choice - now after your eggs / omelette layer is just about done add your cheese of choice let meal followed by adding your other ingredients. Once your omelette is all done add parsley as a topping then enjoy. Add salt, pepper or and other seasoning and herbs of your liking as well. Also I personally like cutting my prawns depending on size into a half inch bite size pieces as well as my veggies! ~ Calvin Sampson