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By: Mark Romanack This buck steelhead struck a Mag Lip 3.0 in the popular Double Trouble color. On the West Coast and also in the Great Lakes region, winter steelhead fishing is a cult-like activity. Those who live to target big chrome sided steelhead simply can’t get enough these magnificent fish. A number of different presentations routinely produce steelhead when they are found in rivers. The iconic Yakima Bait Spin-N-Glo, Maxi Jig and Mag Lip are must have products for any angler who targets steelhead in rivers. SPIN-N-GLO® The Yakima Bait Spin-N-Glo is a buoyant attractor that spins with the slightest movement and is commonly fished along bottom for steelhead. The rig used to cast a Spin-N-Glo is similar to those commonly used to drift a spawn bag along bottom. Many anglers simply thread on a No. 6, 8, 10 or 12 size Spin-N-Glo onto the main line and terminate by also threading on a small bead and then tying on an appropriate sized octopus hook. The bead provides a bushing that allows the Spin-N-Glo to spin freely. Two or three feet up the main line a split shot is added to the line. The trick is to add just enough weight so the rig will sink to the bottom and the current will drift the offering naturally downstream. In heavy current, this same rig can be modified to include a three way swivel with a pencil weight or slinky style sinker in place of the split shot. The Spin-N-Glo rig is casted quartering upstream and as the rig drifts downstream the angler picks up the slack line and keeps pace with the rig. Any hesitation in the downstream drift signals that a fish has picked up the Spin-N-Glo. The author, Mark Romanack enjoys targeting steelhead in a host of different rivers scattered across the Great Lakes region. Fish like this can make even the coldest days on the water rewarding. MAXI JIG™ The Yakima Bait Maxi Jig was designed with river steelhead in mind. Built on a 2X strong Owner hook, the Maxi Jig is dressed with colorful beads, maribou and tensile in dozens of fish catching colors. Available in 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 ounce sizes the Maxi Jig is most often fished below a float that suspends the jig just off bottom. Shallow gravel runs and lazy holes are prime places to float a Maxi Jig near bottom. When using the smaller sizes of the Maxi Jig, anglers often use a few split shot about 12 to 18 inches above the jig to help get the rig to depth quickly. The trick is to use enough weight that the float rests low in the water. The slightest take will cause the float to sink, telegraphing the strike and providing little resistance to the fish. A number of baits are used in combination with the Maxi Jig to entice river steelhead. Wax worms and mayfly larva often referred to as “wigglers” are commonly added to the jig as extra enticement. The Maxi Jig is also more productive when a squirt or two of Rooster Tail® Spray Scent is added. This water soluble scent allows the maribou to pulsate naturally in the water, while at the same time putting out a powerful scent stream in the water. Steelhead fishermen like the Shrimp, Trophy Trout and Trout/Kokanee formulas. A nip in the air and a little snow on the ground makes for the perfect day winter steelhead fishing. MAG LIP® Yakima Bait’s Mag Lip crankbait is legendary among stream steelhead fishermen who back-troll these plugs from a drift boat, jet sled or small skiff. The boat is anchored in the current and plugs are played out downstream of the boat just far enough that the plugs wobble down near bottom. Rods are strategically spaced out using rod holders, creating a wall of wobbling plugs. When the anchor is lifted, the boat is then controlled using oars or an electric motor that can swing the boat from side to side and also hover the boat in the current. Gradually the boat is allowed to slip downstream while the current pushing against the Mag Lip brings their wobbling action to life. When steelhead hit a Mag Lip the strike often buries the rod making it difficult to pull free from the rod holder. For most river fishing situations the 3.0 and 3.5 sizes of the Mag Lip are the most popular. In ultra clear water streams many anglers prefer the smaller 2.5 and even 2.0 Mag Lip. Mag Lip comes in dozens of fish catching colors. Some of the consistently productive steelhead color patterns include Metallic Gold/Flame, Grinch, Double Trouble, Green Machine, Mad Man, Payday, NFL and Metallic Gold/Green Pirate. SUMMING IT UP The Spin-N-Glo, Maxi Jig and the Mag Lip are three legendary Yakima Bait Company products that produce steelhead day in and day out. Teamed up with Rooster Tail® Spray Scent all three of these baits enjoy even more success.

By: Mark Romanack The Big Al Fish Flash produced by Yakima Bait Company is hands down the flasher of choice on the west coast and this trend is invading other salmon fisheries. I had the great pleasure to fish the famed Buoy 10 region of the Columbia River for king salmon. My friends at Yakima Bait hosted the trip and treated the Fishing 411 crew to some amazing salmon fishing west coast style. The Columbia receives one of the richest runs of salmon in North American and countless anglers from all over the nation converge here in August and September to experience the best sport salmon fishing found anywhere. Before I even stepped into the boat I could see a trend that put a big smile on my face. Literally every angler walking down the dock, every captain getting his boat ready for clients and every anxious group of anglers at the boat launch had a unique flasher hanging from their fishing line called the Big Al Fish Flash. Produced by Yakima Bait Company, (www.yakimabait.com) one of the largest tackle manufacturers in the USA, the Fish Flash is a triangle shaped flasher that spins on it’s own axis. Compared to other attractors, the Fish Flash puts out more strobes of light and moves through the water with zero drag or resistance. These flashers are used most commonly in front of cut herring rigs, anchovy rigs, spinners and plugs. On the Columbia River anglers use a three way rig that encompasses a lead weight on a 12 inch dropper. A Fish Flash (usually an eight inch model) is added behind the lead weight and a four to five foot leader is added terminating to a cut bait rig or lure. This simple set up is lowered to the bottom, the rod placed in a rod holder and anglers troll either upstream or downstream depending on the timing of the tide. To say that trolling with Fish Flash is effective would be a gross understatement. Every angler on the west coast has bought into this technology because it works and it works day in and day out. On the Columbia River when a salmon is hooked, everyone on board reels in their line to avoid tangling with the hooked fish. During this process you can clearly see what everyone is fishing with and it's unanimous that angler on the Columbia River are using the Big Al Fish Flash. I’ve been using Fish Flash back home in the Great Lakes on various diving planers, Off Shore Tackle Tadpole Divers and in combination with my downrigger set ups for several years with lots of success. To date I’ve caught king, coho, Atlantic, and pink salmon on the Fish Flash. I’ve also landed steelhead, walleye, brown trout and lake trout using these same flasher attractors. In Oregon and Washington it was refreshing to see everyone is already onto the Fish Flash band wagon. The Fish Flash comes in four sizes including the 4, 6, 8 and 10 inch models. I find that the 4 and 6 inch versions are ideal for walleye and brown trout trolling applications. The larger 8 and 10 inch models are tops for salmon and lake trout. Produced in literally every color combination imaginable, my buddy and salmon fishing legend Buzz Ramsey taught me that chrome finishes tend to work better for on sunny days and painted finishes are the better producers on overcast days or early and late in the day. In clear water I’ve also discovered that downsizing the flasher and using more subtle colors pays off big time. In stained to dirty water conditions I find that brighter colored flashers and larger models produce best. It’s also a wise idea to use a longer six to seven foot leader between the flasher and the lure or bait when fishing in clear water. In stained to dirty water a four foot leader is about perfect. If you haven’t discovered the Yakima Bait Fish Flash, it’s time to take the plunge. Remember, most of what we know here in the Great Lakes about trout and salmon fishing is thanks to our west coast counterparts! Viva La Fish Flash Baby. As Jake fights this salmon you can clearly see the basic rig used on the Columbia River. Depending on the water depth and tide level a lead weight of eight to 20 ounces is fished on a three way rig in front of a Big Al Fish Flash and at the terminal end either a spinner, plug or bait rig featuring cut herring or an anchovy rig.

By: Andy Martin Tyler Curry of Reno, Nev., holds one of the king salmon he caught Nov. 2 while fishing the Chetco River with guide Andy Martin of Wild Rivers Fishing. The king smacked a T50 FlatFish with the Fickle Pickle finish. Nothing compares to the yank-the-rod-from-your-hand strike of a big fall king salmon smashing a Flatfish® plug. The ferocious take downs, and downright extreme effectiveness of plugs, make them a go-to lure for river salmon fishing. The original Flatfish, with sizes from M2 to T60, are perfect for most river conditions in the fall. They are top producers in my drift boat during the busy fall river salmon season. There are plenty of different plugs to choose from for river salmon fishing. The origins of plugging for salmon, however, can be traced back to the original Flatfish. Decades ago, back-trolling plugs for salmon become the most effective technique for tricking big kings on the Sacramento River in Northern California. It was there that guides discovered adding a sardine fillet to the plug made it even more effective. Guides kept the technique a secret for years, but then brought it north to the Kenai River in Alaska. There, other guides learned about bait-wrapped Flatfish, and brought the method back to their home rivers in Oregon, Washington and California. In low water, the 4 1/2-inch M-2 Flatfish provokes strikes from wary salmon holding in clearer water. The key is fishing the head of pools, where riffles flow in, or the tailouts during early morning low-light conditions. A 3/4-ounce egg sinker can be added to the mainline, 4 feet above the plug, to get it deeper. The T50 and T55 are the most popular Flatfish sizes. During typical good flows after a fall rain, the T50 really shines. It can be flatlined, fished in 4 to 8 feet of water, or combined with a dropper rig to fish deeper holes. If fresh salmon are moving through, and an angler can get a rapidly wiggling Flatfish in front of them, chance are the fish will strike. In big rivers, with deeper water but slow flows, the T55 and T60 plugs shine. These lures have a larger surface area, and have a wiggling action other plugs can't seem to replicate. Chrome with a chartreuse bill is the most popular fall salmon plug color throughout the Northwest. Other popular Flatfish colors includes Mad Clown, Double Trouble, Metallic Silver Red Wing and Feeder, which is a combination of chartreuse, silver and blue. The key to working plugs is a slow, methodical presentation. Start high in the hole or run, and slowly work the Flatfish through the deeper part of the hole. Using rod holders will increase the hook-to-net ratio, as an early hookset usually leads to a missed hookup. Let the salmon take the plug, and turn, which will bury the rod over and set the hook. Bait wraps don't need to be huge. Simply cover a third to half of the bottom surface area of the plug. Be careful to trim the wrap so it balances evenly, preventing the plug from rolling to one side. ----- Guide Andy Martin is a longtime Yakima Bait pro staffer, and operates Wild Rivers Fishing in Southern Oregon and Northern California. Capt. Andy Martin Brookings Fishing Charters LLC Wild Rivers Fishing (541) 813-1082 or (206) 388-8988 cell/text www.brookingsfishing.com www.wildriversfishing.com Check us out on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/brookingsfishingcharters/

By: Mark Romanack with Jarod Higginbotham One of the cool things about sport fishing is there is always something new and interesting to try. When it comes to catching coho or cut throat trout the traditional methods of casting spinners, back-trolling plugs and back-bouncing spawn have caught fish for decades. The new kid on the block is a jig casting technique called “Twitching”. “The new Twitcher Jig is most effective way of catching coho in rivers I’ve ever seen,” says Jarod Higginbotham of Yakima Bait Company. “Not only is this presentation simple and easy to master, it works in rivers, lakes and estuaries everywhere coho are found.” THE JIG The Twitcher jig features a darter style head that imparts action when the jig is hopped or twitched. The body of the Twitcher Jig is made up of a mixture of rabbit fur, Maribou and squid tentacles that combine to create a jig with a pulsating action in the water. The hook is a 4Xs strong 4/0 size that is ideal for hooking and holding powerful fish. Twitcher Jigs come in three sizes including a 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 ounce versions making them ideal for casting in different water depths and current speeds. The Twitcher Jig is also offered in 18 different fish catching colors. THE PRESENTATION “When casting in rivers, I suggest making a long cast quartering slightly upstream,” advises Higginbotham. “Let the jig sink to bottom and then using aggressive rod strokes, jig, hop or snap the Twitcher Jig off bottom and let it sink on a slack line. Drop the rod tip, reel up the slack and give the jig another aggressive pop.” This exaggerated jigging presentation is duplicated over and over again until the cast is completed. “The cadence or how fast the Twitcher Jig is worked changes from day to day,” adds Higginbotham. “Some days they want it darting aggressively and moving fast. Other days you have to tone down the presentation a little to help trigger strikes.” Twitching with the Twitcher Jig is something that any angler can master with just a little practice. Strikes are explosive making this presentation one of the most exciting ways to catch salmon ever developed. RODS/REELS/LINE The ideal rod for Twitching is a seven foot/six inch spinning rod with a medium or medium/heavy action. Match this rod up to 3500 or 4000 size spinning reel loaded with 40 to 50 pound test super braid line. Braid lays on spinning reels best when a small amount of monofilament line is spooled on first and the braid added as a top dressing. “Some anglers tie their Twitcher Jig directly to the braided line,” says Higginbotham. “I personally prefer to tie in a three foot long shock leader of 20# test monofilament line or fluorocarbon leader material. The shock leader helps to prevent breaking off fish on the hook set.” Anglers who are tying the braid directly to the jig are best equipped with a black, smoke, green or other low visibility braided line. When using a shock leader, high visibility super braid makes it easier to detect strikes, especially when making long casts. OTHER APPLICATIONS While the Twitcher Jig was designed with coho or cut throat in mind, this presentation also catches silver salmon, chinook, pink and Atlantic salmon. Anglers are also having great success targeting steelhead and stream trout using this unique Twitching presentation. Casting is the best way to target most salmon and trout, but in the case of lake trout the Twitcher Jig can also be vertical jigged effectively. WRAPPING IT UP Twitching for salmon has flat out stolen the show among anglers on the west coast and this unique presentation has penetrated many other areas where salmon are found. It’s hard to beat the excitement of catching salmon on light gear, feeling the strike and setting the hook into stubborn fish. Casting the Twitcher Jig is just one more chapter in the book of salmon fishing. The Yakima Bait Twitcher Jig is available at fine sporting goods retailers everywhere.

By: Cody Herman August 1st is an important date for all Salmon anglers across the Pacific Northwest. This date on the calendar signifies the opener of the Columbia River Estuary each year for what many consider to be the best Chinook and Coho fishing anywhere in the world. Each year, more than 1 million Salmon will cross the “Most Dangerous Bar in the World” as they begin their journey to the spawning grounds hundreds of miles upstream. This 40 square mile area can provide the most fast paced action or incredible frustration. However, every angler knows that on each tide change, thousands of new fish will enter the Buoy 10 fishery. Here are the details you need to know if you plan on making the trek to this world-renowned Salmon Fishery: What: Chinook and Coho Salmon. The Chinook average between 12-20lbs most years with Coho in the 6-10lb range. However, each year sees Chinook over 40lbs and 20lb class Coho! Because these fish are entering dozens of different tributaries, there are several runs that are protected in hopes of increasing their future numbers. As such, regulations change each year…and sometimes…each week during the season. When: Yes, August 1st is the opener. But what is more important is understanding tides. Whether you are planning out a weekend or to fish the entire season, knowing when these fish will arrive will help set realistic expectations. In general, Peak tides will bring in Coho and the Chinook push into the estuary as those tides begin to fall. As the tides bottom out and begin to rise, the fish will acclimate to the warmer freshwater move further upstream. Chinook will show early in the season, with a good push of Coho arriving on the biggest tide swings around the 3rd week of August. Where: The main port towns for anglers is Astoria, Oregon and either Chinook or Ilwaco, Washington. Now, let’s talk about where in this massive expanse of water should you focus your efforts! These fish can move 20 miles on each tide exchange which occur every 6-8 hours. This can make staying on top of the bulk of the Salmon entering the Columbia River Estuary difficult. For this reason, paying attention to water temperature can be your best plan of attack. The new fish will be in the cooler ocean water while your fish moving upstream will be in the warmer river water. There can be a 20-degree difference between the two on occasion. As you start seeing some action from other boats and on your electronics, take note of the water temperature and try to stay within a couple degrees of that number. This should greatly increase your success rate! How: Trolling. Because this area is so massive and the fish move with the tides, your best technique will be trolling with the current as it flows in and ebbs out. Pay attention to your electronics. Many areas you could be fishing in 50+ feet of water and these fish could be cruising shallow or be belly in the dirt! Trust your electronics and put your gear in the strike zone! As for tackle, most anglers think cut plug herring for targeting Salmon at the coast. However, the currents often exceed 5mph on the tide changes and can easily rip your bait off the hooks. Because of this, fishing with lures is an excellent option. The new SpinFish from Yakima Bait Company in sizes 2.5, 3.0 and 4.0 have become a quick favorite in just the last 2 years. This is because you can add bait like Pro-Cure’s “Fish Nip” inside of the SpinFish for added attraction. Another option is using spinners in sizes 3.5 all the way up to size 7 blades in both Cascade and Colorado. Colors that seem to work best are any variation of Pink, White, Red and Chartreuse with a Gold, Silver or Copper base. Fish these lures 3-4’ behind an 8” Big Al’s “Fish Flash” Flasher in Red, Chartreuse or any metallic variations. Be sure to bring the big leads as well. Because of the heavy currents, 12-20oz leads are needed to keep your gear in front of the fish! 9’6” to 10’6” rods with line counter reels filled with either 30lb Maxima Mono or 65lb Maxima Braid 8 is ideal. Line counter reels can help you duplicate each bite and ensure you are staying in front of the fish as they flush through the estuary! Final Thoughts: Patience and Safety are paramount if you plan on participating in this fishery. The lines at the ramps are long, parking lots are full, the docks are crowded and many times you are fishing in extremely tight quarters on the water during a good bite. Each year, there are boat collisions that take place simply because of the number of boats on the water. Be aware of your surroundings, pay attention to the details and remember…this is fishing…have fun on the water! Written by: Cody Herman Professional Guide TV Show Host www.dayoneoutdoors.com ***The author posts daily updates from the Buoy 10 fishery talking through details of the day on the water, where the fish were biting and what gear is working best! Thousands of people watch these videos daily in hopes of gaining an edge for their next trip to the Mouth of the Columbia River or to simply follow along with the biggest Salmon Fishery in the Lower 48! To watch and subscribe to these videos, go to: www.youtube.com/dayoneoutdoors

By Bernie Schultz At this time of year, many of the bass we are after are deep. They’re away from the shoreline relating to offshore features. And though today’s electronics can help us find them, catching them is a whole other matter. Let’s assume we know where they are, their depth and the type of structure they’re holding on. What lures would you throw? One that’s high on my list is a big spinnerbait — the kind specifically designed for fishing deep. I’m talking 3/4-ounce and heavier. The kind that get down quick and stay there throughout the retrieve. The kind that can also attract bass from a distance, or pull them out of heavy cover … even trick those that aren’t in the mood to feed. Why a blade bait, you ask? Spinnerbaits are relatively snag proof. They have the ability to pass through cover too gnarly for other moving lures — particularly crankbaits. And that makes them ideal for probing submerged brush, rockpiles and thick grass. Spinnerbaits are also great baitfish imitators. Whether it’s a cluster of small threadfin or large, single gizzard shad, the right blade size, color and profile can fool bass into believing the lure is real. We’re talking willow-leaf blades, of course — either tandem or paired with a leading Colorado blade. Willow-leaf blades are fish-shaped and they give off a tremendous amount of flash. Built with the right combination of components and head weight, they can maintain lateral movement while maximizing travel time through the strike zone. And that is precisely why slow-rolling a spinnerbait is so effective. The key is keeping the lure in frequent contact with the bottom or the cover related to it. For instance, if you’re fishing the edge of a deep, submerged grassbed, you'll want to be sure the lure stays in contact with the grass as it tapers off into deeper water. When the lure grabs the grass, rip it free and let it fall on a semi-slack line. At least until you feel the grass again. Then repeat. Strikes will usually occur as the lure is falling or when it regains forward motion. The same applies to stumps, brush and rock. When the bait gets hung up, try ripping it free with a snatch of the rod tip. This sudden movement and flash mimics escaping prey and it can trigger a bass to strike. The right setup To better facilitate these moves, it’s important to have the right balance of tackle. Big spinnerbaits require heavier line with stout rods and reels. My personal preference includes a Shimano 7’2” Expride casting rod in a medium-heavy action with moderate-fast tip. That length and action is ideal for casting big blade baits, as well as taking up slack on long distance hooksets. And I can feel every pulse of the lure as the blades turn. I pair it with their slower, 6.2:1 ratio Metanium MGL III reel, which allows me to retrieve the spinnerbait at the right rate of speed — assuring that it stays deep throughout the retrieve. The Metanium’s magnesium frame telegraphs even the most subtle vibrations, so I know what the lure is doing at all times. And it has the guts to handle big baits and big bass in thick cover. The line I spool it with depends on certain variables. If the water I’m fishing is super clear or the fish are line sensitive, I’ll go with 15- to 20-pound fluoro. If I want to “feather” the lure through the tops of submerged grass or brush, I may choose mono in the same pound rating for its buoyancy. In extra thick cover or if I know I’m on big bass, I’ll opt for Power Pro Super Slick braid — usually in the 30-pound class. The business end Assuming you have the right balance of tackle, let’s discuss lure choice. Most spinnerbaits used for this technique come with tandem blades, consisting of double willow or Colorado-willow combinations. That's not to say that single spins won't work, they will at times. But if you surveyed the top touring bass professionals, most would tell you they prefer a tandem model with a leading Colorado and trailing willow-leaf. The Colorado will provide much of the vibration, while the willow-leaf will better match the profile of live baitfish. Willows also provide maximum flash without forcing the lure to rise too much. Spinnerbaits designed for slow rolling are usually bigger in all aspects — the blades, frame, head and hooks are all upsized. But it’s important that all of these components are balanced and working together … even the skirt and/or trailer can influence the lures overall performance. Some anglers prefer super-sized trailing blades — No. 7 or 8 willow leafs. That’s fine if you’re after giant bass. But keep in mind, the larger the blade, the more resistance it will c reate, and the more likely the lure will “climb” during the retrieve. So, unless you have the patience of Job, I would suggest No. 5 or 6 willow-shaped blades. They turn easier, which can create more flash and vibration. I generally prefer a No.4 front blade (either Colorado or willow) paired to a No.6 trailing willow leaf. My spin on things Years ago, I designed a spinnerbait for Hildebrandt, specifically for slow rolling. We named it the Tin Roller. And, as you can probably guess, it’s molded with pure tin. We chose this material for several reasons. At the time of its design, a national ban on lead was being considered. Concerned, I worked with Hildebrandt to find an alternative material — one with similar properties but nontoxic to birds, mammals or fish. And after numerous trials, we found tin to be the best alternative. It wasn’t as good as lead. It was better! Here’s how. Because tin is much harder than lead, it transmits sound and vibration better. That means, when the lure is traveling and the blades are turning, the head, hook and shirt will shake more with each pulse. And that extra movement can attract fish. Also, because tin is approximately two-thirds the weight of lead by volume, a large profile spinnerbait can be finessed through structure with less chance of snagging … appearing more realistic as it pulses. When it comes to blade finishes, nickel-silver or gold are the two most common choices. Skirt patterns are normally white, chartreuse, or a blend of the two. If a soft-plastic trailer is added, its coloration usually matches one of these patterns. Obviously there are exceptions. But day in and day out, these are the most reliable combinations. These are the tools I use when fishing a spinnerbait through deep structure. Hopefully what I’ve shared will help you next time you’re out on the water. Follow Bernie Schultz on Facebook and through his website. This article first appeared on Bassmaster.com

By: Mark Romanack When it comes to catching walleye, you have to get their attention before you can get a hook into them. Walleye are sight feeders and that means they depend heavily on their sense of sight to find prey and zero in on their next meal. Yakima Bait’s new Add-a-Buzz attractors have walleye written all over them. Available in three sizes and five different fish catching finishes, the Add-a-Buzz is a buzz bait blade rigged on a wire harness that can be added to a host of trolling presentations. “Pick your poison,” says Jake Romanack of Fishing 411 TV. “The Add-a-Buzz can be attached directly to the back of popular walleye trolling divers such as the Tadpole Diver, Jet Diver, Tru Trip Diver, Mini Dipsy and this unique attractor even works on in-line style sinkers like the Bass Pro Shops XPS Keel Sinkers. As these devices are trolled, the Add-a-Buzz spins and puts out tons of fish attracting flash. The Add-a-Buzz spins even at the slowest trolling speeds and marries up perfectly to spinner rigs, trolling spoons and even crankbaits. I like to run the Add-a-Buzz about 60 to 72 inches in front of my lure.” TheAdd-a-Buzz can also be teamed up with sinking lines such as lead core or rigged in-line a few feet ahead of a diving crankbait to generate more flash and pull in fish from greater distances. The Add-a-Buzz can be trolled straight out the back of the boat as a flat line, or used in combination with planer boards to create a larger trolling spread. The smaller sizes and natural finishes are ideally suited to trolling in clear water conditions. When anglers are faced with stained or off color water, the larger sizes and brighter finishes get the nod. Because the Add-a-Buzz spins on it’s own axis, these attractors have very little resistance in the water, making them a dream to fish. Walleye are sight feeders and trolling is more productive when attractors like the Add-a-Buzz are implemented into trolling set ups. Jake Romanack of Fishing 411 TV knows how to get the attention of more and bigger walleye. “If you aren’t sold on how well an Add-a-Buzz works, try fishing one on the left side of the boat and your normal walleye set ups on the other side,” advises Romanack. “I’m betting you’ll quickly discover that the Add-a-Buzz catches more fish!” Walleye are sight feeders and flash plays an important role in trolling success. The Add-a-Buzz is so simple, so versatile and works so well, it has everyone wondering what took so long to introduce this new and unique trolling product! Editor’s Note: Mark Romanack is a Michigan based outdoor writer and the host of the popular Fishing 411 TV series that broadcasts on Sportsman Channel, World Fishing Network and Sportsman Canada.

by Mark Romanack The SpinFish is deadly effective on adult Great Lakes chinook salmon Rotating plugs have become a salmon fishing staple in the Pacific Northwest for many years. It took some time, but this unique trolling presentation is gaining a foothold in the Great Lakes. Rotating plugs such as the Yakima Bait SpinFish are designed to replicate the action of a cut herring spinning in the water. The SpinFish is unique in that the two-piece design allows the hollow center of the bait to be stuffed with cut bait, canned tuna or scent products such as Pro Cure Super Gel. The combination of the spinning plug and fish attracting scent stream in the water becomes a one - two punch for chinook and coho salmon who simply can’t resist this knock out presentation. FISH FLASH RIGGING Anglers in the Great Lakes are rigging SpinFish primarily in two different ways. The first rigging method that consistently catches fish is using the SpinFish in combination with a spinning flasher known as the Big Al Fish Flash. This triangle shaped flasher rotates on it’s own axis creating pulsations of fish attracting flash that draw in fish from great distances. Fish Flash comes in various sizes, but the smaller four and six inch models are ideal for the gin clear waters of the Great Lakes. The SpinFish comes factory rigged with a fluorocarbon leader that is tied directly to the back of the Fish Flash. Simply attach the main line from the rod/reel to the nose of the Fish Flash, let the rig back behind the boat 20 to 50 feet and use a downrigger to present the Fish Flash and SpinFish combination to depth. Because the Fish Flash has near zero drag in the water, this rigging can also be used in combination with diving planers or sinking lines such as lead core, copper line and weighted stainless wire. ROTATING FLASHER RIGGING The SpinFish rotating plug is often fished in combination with a rotating paddle style flasher. The scent chamber in the SpinFish readily accepts cut bait or paste fish scents such as Pro Cure Super Gel. The SpinFish also works great when fished in combination with paddle style rotating flashers. Rotating flashers spin in water creating flash. The further behind the boat these flashers are fished, the wider the rotation they generate. The factory supplied leader on the SpinFish is attached directly to the back of the flasher. By shortening the leader between the flasher and the SpinFish, anglers can make subtle changes to the action of the SpinFish. A shorter leader creates a more snappy action while a longer leader generates a slower and more subdued action. This rig can be presented a number of different ways including using downriggers, diving planers and sinking lines. USING CUSTOM LEADERS The SpinFish comes with a factory rigged 30 pound test leader for convenience. Custom tying leaders on lighter and heavier fluorocarbon line is an easy way to liven up the action or dull the action down as conditions dictate. Using a lighter 20 pound test leader will increase the action. Going with a heavier 40 pound test leader will create a more subdued action that often works well on lethargic fish. SPINFISH SIZES The SpinFish comes in four different sizes including a 2.0, 2.5, 3.0 and 4.0 version. For chinook and coho salmon in the Great Lakes the 3.0 and 4.0 sizes are the most popular. One of the best ways to store SpinFish is to wrap the leader around foam boards that fit perfectly into deep utility style tackle boxes. A dozen or more rigs can be stored on one board and two boards fit nicely into a deep utility box. TROLLING SPEEDS SpinFish can be trolled at a host of speeds making this presentation ideal for mixing with other popular trolling gear such as wobbling plugs, spoons and meat rigs. Some of the best success with SpinFish comes at speeds ranging from 2.0 to 2.5 MPH. COLORS SpinFish comes in dozens of fish catching colors designed especially to trigger strikes from salmon, trout and steelhead. Some of the top chinook colors include Double Trouble, Silver Feeder and Silver Firetiger. Coho salmon tend to favor the more gaudy colors including Silver Clown Shoes, Silver Egg Fluorescent and Chartreuse Monkey Pickles. FINAL THOUGHTS Because the scent chamber in the SpinFish is large, these rotating plugs generate a long lasting scent stream in the water. It’s best to replace the cut bait, canned tuna or paste scent about every 30 to 40 minutes. A small bottle brush and a little soapy water does a good job of cleaning out the SpinFish after using them and before they are stored. Editor’s Note: Mark Romanack is a Michigan based outdoor writer and host of the popular Fishing 411 TV series broadcast on Sportsman Channel, World Fishing Network and also Sportsman Canada.

By: Cody Herman, Day One Outdoors For most anglers, our first introduction to fishing was made possible thanks to trout that were stocked at our local lakes and community ponds. As we progress in our fishing acumen, we expand too many other species and specific, detailed techniques. Regardless if you are primarily a tournament bass angler, marlin fisherman or spend the winter months chasing steelhead in the rivers... we all revert back to, and enjoy, chasing trout! But why do most anglers not put forth the same effort and ingenuity into trout fishing as other fisheries? Yes, Powerbait works for trout...we all know. But what new techniques have emerged recently in this "gateway" angling experience for new and experienced anglers alike? SpinFish, is a new rotating plug you may not have heard of. This lure quickly gained popularity amongst salmon anglers on the West Coast fishing the ocean, bays and rivers. The simplicity, and versatility of this lure helped countless anglers land coho and chinook alike for the past few years. Recently, Yakima Bait Company has expanded its offering of SpinFish to include sizes ideal for trout fishing! The new 2.0 and 2.5 sizes are a perfect expansion of a product line that already has proven results. Trolling Tactics Flat line, lead line, behind a diver, off of a downrigger, split shots, banana weights, planer boards...if you are trolling for trout, Spinfish should be in your arsenal. Versatility is what separates this lure from others. For any and all trolling applications, this lure flat out produces! Attention to detail in the design is what makes SpinFish unique. Because the lure has an empty body cavity, it has a near neutral buoyancy allowing for slow troll speeds with little to no drop unless weight is added. The reason for the negative space in the middle of the lure is to allow for the addition of bait and scent. Unlike many other lures on the market, the SpinFish opens in the middle to be able to place an anglers favorite scent and/or bait inside the lure to make it even more productive! For trout and kokanee anglers, some of the most productive baits and scent include corn, worms, Powerbait or simply a cotton ball soaked with Yakima Bait Company's "Rooster Tail Scent Spray" in the "Trophy Trout" flavor. All these baits and scents produce excellent results. Rigging the SpinFish is simple and intuitive. You can choose between a right or left spin and simply tie on the Spinfish behind your terminal tackle as it comes pre-tied with a 2-Hook rig for an excellent hookup to land ratio! Spinfish are new to the market and as such, new ways to use this effective and versatile lure are quickly coming to light. Pick up a 2.0 or 2.5 SpinFish at your local retailer and don’t forget to let us know about your fishing success! ------------------------------ Regards, Cody Herman Day One Outdoors, LLC www.dayoneoutdoors.com

By: Bill Herzog A spinner will cover more water faster, always finding larger/more aggressive trout. Yakima Bait’s Rooster Tail spinners fill that order. My great friend JD Love has moved back to Montana, retiring from the rigors of a winter coastal steelhead guide to the more laid-back vocation of trout guide. I call him often from my homeport of Yakima, WA to compare river stories from our trout adventures. He always makes me cringe when he tells me of oversized browns, rainbows and cutthroat his clients hook on flies the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Right angle nymphing with a single-handed fly rod, a bobber and dual weighted nymphs are deadly effective, easy for the novice to use and have decent success. I just can’t do it… Two reasons…first, at my ancient age I absolutely cannot tie on any fly smaller than a #12 without a proton microscope. Nothing against it, I just don’t dig it. That is why I spend my time on trout rivers drifting small spinners, primarily Rooster Tails. Why spinners? You must cover far more water to find trout, especially larger ones when bites are far between. You need a technique that is effective as well as being one that covers the water thoroughly at a fairly fast pace. Spinners, especially Rooster Tails, feature flash, and that “pop” is the ticket. There’s a thing called “attraction radius”, the flash the rotating blade gives off. Let’s say, in very clear water, the blade’s flash can be seen by trout 6 feet away, where a small fly even though most of the time is more effective in getting numbers of bites can only be seen 2 feet. Do a bit of math and you can see how the fly needs to be presented many more times along a stretch of holding water to be spotted by trout that the flash of a blade. Work this calculation out a bit and time spent on each run is cut by more than half, which means far more water is combed in a day, therefore far higher odds of finding numbers of trout. The number one reason? The grabs from aggressive trout on Rooster Tails are breath-robbing, eye- popping, rod-creaking strikes!! I used this same “formula” for many moons, it’s the best way to work as much water as possible during our precious times river side. Which size/colors/finishes of Rooster Tail spinners are the best? There are a dozen or so trout spinners out there commercially available, some high quality and some just cheap garbage. Your spinner choices must fall into a few categories to be game changers. First, they gotta be readily available, second, they must be available in proper colors and blade finishes to cover almost any situation and third, they must be the correct weight to fish effectively. I choose the Rooster Tail by Yakima Bait, as it fits snugly in each category. The Rooster Tail spinner just looks trouty, its hackle tail gives it a profile and action no other trout spinner features. Plus, it’s made in my backyard, so there may be a bit of homerism in there somewhere. Presenting the Spinner for Trout Yeah, you can just fire it out there and start reeling and perhaps the planets align and an aggressive fish or two may reward you eventually, but like Dean Wormer says, that is no way to go through life, son. One of the main reasons I choose the Rooster Tail is its weight paired with blade size. The three sizes that get 95% of use in my vest are the 1/6th, 1/8th and 1/16th ounce models. Now those may seem light, and for casting distance and getting down immediately into short or tight edges, it is. Easily fixed by proper rigging, which we will cover in a paragraph or two. Almost without exception, positioning is everything. Remember, a spinner creates a lot of lift and resistance due to the revolving blade. Your job is to negate the “push” by allowing the spinner to travel downriver with the current. Position yourself directly across and slightly downriver from your target water. Cast slightly beyond the spot you would expect a trout to lie. On most trout rivers, unlike steelhead they may forego laying out in middle of a riffle and hug the bank. That’s where the food comes from, either insects or small forage fish like sculpin…and where the biggest trout in the crick live. Larger trout have a different diet than smaller ones, I’m not sure what the spinner simulates but I imagine it could be a small fish or the like and a large caloric shot. A typical presentation all day long is cast the spinner as close to the bank/downed trees/boulders as you possibly can. Accuracy is a premium when spinner fishing for trout in rivers. Narrow edges in current right tight to the bank are your A1 target spots. The edge seams are the top producers. Chances are that pattern stays constant in your trout streams as well. When your Rooster Tail enters the water, allow it to free fall for a second or two before swiftly gathering all slack and allowing the blade to begin to spin. Most trout, especially the hungry aggressive ones, with slash at the lure on the drop while the blade is merely wiggling. Be ready for this, it is a common grab and now is when your hook sharpening skills will be tested. Keep your rod tip low, at around 9 o’clock and pointed somewhat at your lure, all the ready to set a hook. As the spinner sinks, a slow reel to keep the lure moving smartly along just above the bottom and moving at or ever so slightly slower than current speed. Follow the Rooster Tail’s down current movement with the rod tip. After the lure goes past your position, the blade spin increases to create lift and the lure nears your side, watch to make sure there are no chasers and reel in. Move down several steps (remember the attraction radius) and hit a new spot. If there is a trout holding it will do one of two things, either crash down on the spinner in the first few seconds or nobody is home. Move on. Rigging the Spinner I choose these three weights/sizes of Rooster Tails (1/6th, 1/8th and 1/16th oz.) because their size is ideal year around for trout ranging from palm sized to double-digit pounds. These sizes cover all types of water, from shallow tailouts/head-ins (smaller weights/blades) up to longer casts/deeper water (1/6th up to ¼ ounce). The blade, body and tail are not too large to consider as food and not too small/light for all around use. For rigging, start at the bottom and go up. If trebles are legal, the stock trebles on the Rooster Tail are great. When they go dull (and all hooks will) replace the treble by cutting off the eye of the treble, place the smallest split ring you can find on the wire loop and add a #10 round bend bronze treble to the 1/16th and 1/8th; place a #8 on the 1/6th. Where singles are the only legal option, carefully cut off that treble, add the tiny split ring and place a #6 siwash single hook. Sharpen the living daylights out of all your hooks as trout are notorious nippers plus most trout are not that heavy and driving a hook home, even a small one is difficult unless your hook(s) are lethal sharp. I learned through many open division anglers is tie my leader directly to the wire loop on the top of the Rooster Tail instead of a snap swivel. The snap swivel may push the spinner off balance and prevent an immediate blade spin, plus it just makes the spinner (especially Rooster Tails) look unnatural. If you are worried about line twist, as you should with any revolving lure, use a leader approximately 18” long to a swivel. A small #10 black barrel swivel will do, a small ball bearing even better. From trout 8” to 8 pounds my leader of choice is 10# thin high-quality fluorocarbon. Second choice is 6# Maxima Ultragreen. Above the swivel you may add a couple small split shot or do my trick, cut a ½” of 1/8th hollow core pencil lead and slide it on the main line, a tiny 2mm bead above the swivel to protect the knot. Just enough weight to help get casting distance and get the lightly weighted Rooster Tails down quickly. Rod, Reels, Lines Rod, reel and line choice have been the same for me for five years now. A 7’, 6” light, fast action spin rod rated for 4 to 8# lines have been my “working tools” when casting Rooster Tails. Paired with a 1000 size spinning reel is pretty darned the cosmic funk. Mainline is Berkeley Nanofil 10# white. It casts better than any mono, DOES NOT TWIST like mono, has the diameter of 6-pound test with no stretch the feel of the blade spin is in your hands. Place a 7 foot “top shot” of 8-pound Maxima uni-knotted to the Nanofil to the swivel and you are in business. Regardless your choice of outfit, make sure its light and mirrors this style of rod and reel closely. Choosing The Right Spinner Colors/Finishes When your stream/river trout fishing is done under fairly clear and warm (high 50s to low 60s water temps), a great rule of thumb is to keep it subtle for blade finish and body/tail colors. Early morning or towards evening under low light you can get away with a bit more flash, even run a silver blade until the sun peeks over the hill. Ninety percent of the time think brass blade. Brass gives off 60% of light, enough to attract trout without spooking them over their “attraction threshold”. For body/tail colors of Rooster Tails, think dark and subtle. Dull yellow, browns and black in any combo will do. Try the BR (Brown); BRTR (Brown Trout); GH (Grasshopper); MF (Mayfly) and BLCD (Black Coachdog). I catch trout all season on Rooster Tails with these combos in a dozen configurations under bright sky/clear water, the only constant are the colors of blades and body/tails. When the water has some color (3 to 6 feet of visibility) or runs on the cold side (48 to 36 degrees) go with silver plated blades and brighter colored bodies. Try GYL (Glitter Yellow); FWH (Flash White); R (Red); CLCD (Clown Coachdog) and WHR (White/Red). Rooster Tail blades feature real silver plating that reflects 90% of the light, it really pops, making it easier for trout to see and exciting them in colder water. There is always one ultra-secret that separates us from the other hordes of anglers out there, here’s one I thought I would never give up but…here it is. When fishing the Rooster Tail, where legal, spray the hackle with Rooster Tail Scent Spray. I have not found one flavor to out fish another, but Garlic or Trout/Kokanee work amazing. Also, when legal, tip one of the hooks with a single white Berkeley Gulp maggot. Hook it by the very tip, they last for several casts but usually a trout will grip the spinner immediately. Go to the Yakima Bait home page and look up Rooster Tail sizes and colors. You will find a dozen or more combinations that will work just dandy for your home stream/river trout. There is that love of flowing water that most of us just have to have. Hiking the riverbanks, floating in a pontoon, raft or drift boat never gets old. Tossing spinners for trout is just one more way we do what we do. The strike on a Rooster Tail just seems to top every other technique for sheer excitement.

By: Mark Romanack Back-trolling plugs is a river steelhead fishing presentation that got it’s start on the west coast where ocean run steelhead run a host of tributaries. These days, the art of back-trolling has penetrated every major river fishery were steelhead make fall, winter and early spring river spawning runs. The art of back-trolling involves presenting several wobbling plugs downstream of a drift boat, jet sled or small skiff. The effectiveness of this unique presentation is legendary, but there are some do’s and don’t every angler should know about back-trolling plugs. Gabe Dennison poses with a beautiful hen steelhead he caught back-trolling a 2.5 Mag Lip. BOAT CONTROL Back-trolling with plugs in rivers is a game of boat control. Anglers who are skillful at moving the boat in such a way as to steer their plugs into productive water are treated to explosive strikes. The traditional way to control a boat for back-trolling is to use a smooth bottom drift boat equipped with oars to manually slow down the boat’s drift while allowing the current to bring wobbling plugs to life. Back-trolling plugs is a game of boat control. In this picture Mark Romanack and Josh Crabtree use a bow mounted electric motor to control the boat while back-trolling Mag Lip on the St. Joe River in Southwest Michigan. Using the “anchor” and “jog” features on the electric motor key fob, the boat can be held steady or moved upstream, downstream or laterally at the touch of a button. Anglers who are skillful at rowing a drift boat or small skiff can hold the boat steady in the current and also move the boat laterally, sweeping lures across fish holding water in the process. This combined process of boat control causes the trailing plugs to speed up and slow down their action enticingly. In addition to using oars to control the boat, most boats set up for back-trolling are also equipped with an electric anchor winch mounted to the bow that allows the anchor to be raised and lowered remotely. Many anglers mount the anchor control switch on the oar handle making it easier to raise the anchor as needed and then immediately use the oars to take over boat control. When a fish is hooked, in many cases the angler will lower the anchor to hold the boat in place while the fish is played out. This method works nicely for most steelhead and in average current conditions, but when an exceptional fish is hooked, often the anchor must be raised and the boat allowed to drift with the current. Drifting downstream while fighting a stubborn fish makes it much easier to get the upper hand. Oars and electric anchors are the bread and butter of back-trolling for steelhead, but a growing number of anglers are discovering the same presentation can be duplicated using larger jet sled style boats equipped with a bow mounted, GPS guided, auto-pilot style electric motor. Auto-pilot electric motors are controlled using a key fob that allows the operator to control the direction of travel, speed and even to hold or hover the boat in one spot. Recently on the St. Joe River in southwestern Michigan, plug fishing enthusiast Josh Crabtree and yours truly used a new heavy gauge aluminum boat from SmokerCraft known as the X2 Phantom equipped with a MotorGuide Xi5 electric motor to expertly back-troll plugs. We started just upstream of the runs we wanted to fish by putting the electric motor in the water and engaging the “anchor” mode on the key fob which essentially holds the boat in place. With the boat hovering in the current we then deployed our plugs far enough downstream that they would dive down near the bottom. Once our plugs were working nicely, we placed the rods in rod holders strategically mounted at the back of the boat to spread out the lines and cover the maximum amount of water. Once the plugs were deployed, we used the “jog” feature on the key fob to move the boat left, right or backwards in five to 10 foot increments. Using the “jog” feature made it easy to simply touch a button on the key fob and move the boat downstream or laterally while at the same time sweeping our lures across prime steelhead water. Holding a 18 to 22 foot jet sled style boat effectively in strong river current requires using a 24 or 36 volt electric motor. PLUGS FOR BACK-TROLLING When back-trolling plugs the water depth to be fished dictates the best plug options. The Mag Lip family of wobbling plug come in seven different sizes including the 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 and 5.0. The most popular sizes for steelhead fishing in most rivers are the 3.0 and and 3.5 sizes. These baits easily dive six to 10 feet in strong current making them ideal for most steelhead rivers. Josh Crabtree is a big fan of the Mag Lip 3.5 plug. He modifies his lures by removing the factory belly and tail hooks, then adds a second split ring to the back of the bait and a larger wide gap style treble hook to the tail of the bait. This rigging option prevents a powerful steelhead from gaining leverage and tearing the hook free during the fight. Recently while back-trolling plugs with Gabe Dennison of the Yeah Pluggin’ Facebook site, we enjoyed excellent success using the smaller 2.5 Mag Lip. “I find that the smaller 2.5 Mag Lip works best in low and clear water fishing situations,” says Dennison. “The 2.5 Mag Lip only features a tail hook which also allows this bait to fish among snags much better than the larger sizes of Mag Lip which feature a belly and tail hook.” CUSTOM PLUG OPTIONS Back-trolling enthusiasts are always looking for ways to improve this presentation. One way to get the most from wobbling plugs is to experiment with different hooking options. The Mag Lip family of baits feature great action in both slow and fast moving water, making them ideal for custom hooking options. “When fishing the 3.0 and 3.5 Mag Lip, I remove both the belly and tail hooks and then install a second split ring and a larger tail hook,” says Josh Crabtree. “Steelhead are one of the hardest fish to keep hooked up. Using just one hook and an extra split ring on the tail of the Mag Lip prevents hooked fish from gaining leverage and tearing free. Also, because the Mag Lip has such good action, the bait can support larger hooks with a better bite than the hooks which come standard on the baits.” “Many anglers also opt for replacing the factory treble hooks with single Siwash style hooks,” say Jarod Higginbotham of Yakima Bait Company. “The best way to rig a Siwash hook to a Mag Lip plug is to remove the factory treble hook, then add a small barrel swivel to the split ring. Next place the open eye of the Siwash hook through the barrel swivel and use a pair of pliers to close the hook eye.” The single hook rigging method is popular for reducing snags and when hooked fish roll and twist, they can’t gain the leverage required to throw the bait. TIMING FISHING TRIPS Back-trolling with plugs is a presentation that is popular among anglers who target steelhead in the fall, winter and spring. In the dead of winter, when other popular steelhead fishing methods simply don’t produce consistent results, back-trolling plugs is the “go-to” presentation of countless guides and fishing enthusiasts. OTHER PLUGS TO CONSIDER The aggressive wobbling action of a plug seems to drive steelhead crazy even when the water is icy cold. In addition to the Mag Lip family of plugs, the U20 and T4 FlatFish are also noteworthy plugs for back-trolling steelhead. The 1/4 and 1/2 ounce sizes of the Fat Wiggler are also good choices for back-trolling. All of these plugs are produced in a wide variety of popular steelhead colors including both painted and metallic finishes. SUMMING IT UP Back-trolling plugs for steelhead works anywhere that steelhead run rivers in the fall, winter and spring. Back-trolling is not only effective, it’s a very comfortable way to fish especially when ole man winter comes a calling. EDITOR’S NOTE: Mark Romanack is a Michigan based outdoors writer and the executive producer of the Fishing 411 TV show that broadcasts on Sportsman Channel, World Fishing Network and also Sportsman Canada. To watch more! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TBj134hWa4